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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.